Jake's

A lot of positive things have been said and written lately about Jake's, the little resort on Jamaica's undiscovered southwestern side owned by Island Records founder Chris Blackwell.

One of the hotel's key selling points is its location. Although the southwest shore isn't as green and lush as most other parts of the island, it's still very charming. Instead of rolling grasslands dotted with farms and jungle-covered mountains, this side of Jamaica features cactus-studded hills and close-cropped fields. There's also a very friendly population made up mostly of fishermen and farmers. Unlike the island's more traditional tourist destinations, there's no pressure to buy anything here.

Situated on a cliffside by the sea, Jake's six cottages explode with color: deep reds, blues and purples. Each unit is decorated differently with such unique touches as a 1950's radio console disguised as a dresser and an antique sewing machine serving as a writing desk. None of the units have televisions, phones or air-conditioning, although all feature ceiling fans.

What do you do here during the day, when your room is too hot to handle? Head to the beach to swim or snorkel. Or loll around on Adirondack chairs and hammocks, placed in shady nooks and on sunny bluffs. Or head to the bar and strike up a conversation with Duggie, the resident bartender who mixes a wicked rum punch.

The menu here is simple and Jamaican: pepper pot and pumpkin soups, jerk chicken, fish and lobster. For breakfast, however, you'll have to walk a quarter-mile up the road to Trans Love Sweets & Breads for delicious cheese rolls, raisin buns and coffee.

You can spend a week here and not get bored, but you'll want to rent a car to explore this side of the island. Arrange for a box lunch and head to Y.S. Falls, a series of eight dramatic cascades reached by a jitney pulled by a tractor. You can swim in a freshwater pool or enjoy a picnic in a garden. Another touring option is Black River. Jamaica's longest waterway, the river runs through a 125-square-mile swamp that's home to many species of birds and an endangered colony
of crocodiles.

Jake's is a two-hour drive from Montego Bay airport. You can rent a car at the airport or, better yet, arrange in advance to have Jake's send a taxi (about $75 for four people).